Survival of the Outfit

Brief: Design and make a garment for surviving social breakdown

Methods: Pattern cutting

Team: Harry Solomons, Keyi Cao, Qibin Cheng, Carlotta Montanari, Rebecca Hodge

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Working on a garment design was in some ways quite easy to become very practical about answering the brief, and other ways, gave us grounding in what we were trying to achieve. We approached social breakdown from the perspective of overcrowding at migrant camps, shared accommodation, and no permanent home, resulting in a wearable which gave you space to hold your personality close by.

Workshop garments modelled by Keyi. Photo credits: Harry Solomons, Carlotta Montanari, by author

Early in the week, we discussed ideas and learned about pattern cutting, a skill used to make each piece of clothing, one panel at a time. We had loosely been discussing modular segments of clothing to build or swap to make a whole outfit, with the themes of community sharing and practicality coming through. We presented our thrown-together assembly (modelled by Keyi),and received encouragement on the idea of community and building your own identity through clothing.

Sketches and ideas for wing structure. Image credits: Keyi Cao

It was at this point we began to ground the design idea, choosing our context and creating for this specific environment. We began to edge towards the idea of shelter too, which is where the instinct for multiple people to build together began. Aided by the tutorial, the idea of the butterfly wings hatched.

Initial trials of the material. Photo credits: Carlotta Montanari

After gathering materials from a charity shop, we began to prototype and play with the bedsheet, working out the details of what we were trying to achieve for the wearable alongside the concept chosen.

Material manipulations. Photo credits: Carlotta Montanari, Qibin Cheng, Harry Solomons, Keyi Cao, by author

First test with wire embedded. Video credit: Carlotta Montanari

With our design, there were a number of practical elements to figure out, such as the bone structure to hold the fabric rigid, and the way it would sit on the body, however the most significant moment was the decision to create only one wing. Our original theme had always been about bringing people together, and reducing the garment to half its content opened up space to allow the community element to come into play.

Building out the concept: Photo credits: Carlotta Montanari, Qibin Cheng, Harry Solomons, Keyi Cao, by author

Second trial after sewing everything together. Video credits: Carlotta Montanari

Second trial after sewing everything together. Photo credit: Qibin Cheng

Adding the personal touches. Photo credits: Carlotta Montanari, Qibin Cheng

Once the practical elements had been resolved, the remaining task was to ensure that the concept was clear without being spoken. We used ‘official’ documents on the outside, and personal items (some from home, some from charity shops) on the inside, to better indicate the vulnerable revealing of oneself when inviting to connect.

Final garments demonstrated by Harry and Keyi. Photo credit: Qibin Cheng

Final garments demonstrated by Harry and Keyi. Video credit: Carlotta Montanari

The week was fast paced, however felt comfortable as we established our concept and approach relatively quickly, and utilised the skills the team members had to offer to progress each part of the project.

I think that we had taken a lot of care over the production and ideas, however didn’t consider the staging of the catwalk in enough detail, particularly having seen other groups’ presentations, I think we could have expanded on this element.

Presentation catwalk. Video credit: Carlotta Montanari